Excerpted from Sactown Magazine
The sheets of pasta in celebrity chEf-owner Biba Caggiano's lasagna are so thin you could read a copy of Il Mondo through them, yet for all that fragility, the pasta remains pleasantly firm and supple as you bite through the 10(!) layers of it in this vaunted dish. While the pork and veal Bolognese sauce made with imported San Mariano tomatoes grown in the shadow of Mt. Vesuvius is meaty and tasty and the béchamel sauce rich, the epicurean experience here is all about those silky layers of pasta. The coveted entrée has been on the menu at the chef's eponymous midtown restaurant for 30 years, but you can only order it on Thursdays and Fridays, largely because making it is such a daunting process (pro tip: it often sells out on Friday nights, so make an early dinner reservation) - a staff of kitchen helpers labors for the better part of a week in the lasagna-industrial complex known as Biba's Kitchen, arriving at 4 a.m. to produce a precious five to seven pans. In fact, we're told that the pasta whisperers are none too pleased when the lasagna- which no less a gourmand than Darrell Corti himself has deemed the single best dish in Sacramento - gets a press mention like this one, as it means they have to up the output to meet the surge 2801 Capitol Ave. in demand. To this, we can only say, scuzi - and grazie.